Basic information

Garlic belongs to the lily family (Liliaceae). It is related to alliums, tulips and asparagus. Only plants in the genus allium with the specific epithet sativum are true garlic. Plants like elephant garlic (leek) and garlic chives (a perennial) are not classified as garlic. Garlic is a hardy perennial but is grown as an annual. According to Ron Engeland, author of Growing Great Garlic, there may well be over 450 identifiable strains of garlic. In the United States, garlic aficionados created a club, which they aptly named the Order of the Stinking Rose.

 There are two types of garlic: soft-neck and hard-neck. Soft-neck, or common garlic, is mostly grown in mild climates. This is the type that is sold in grocery stores. Soft-neck garlic has white outer skins and decent sized cloves around the outside of the bulb with "irritatingly" skinny cloves in the interior. Soft-necks do not produce a flowering stalk, but they are easier to braid.

Hard-neck garlic is mostly grown in cold-winter regions. Basically, hard-neck garlic is characterized by the tall, twisty, thick flower stalks, known as scapes, produced in the late spring. Many of the hard-necks have rich and distinctive flavors, prized by chefs, such as the Rocambole garlic.

Growing
In Zone 6, it is best to plant hard-neck garlic in the fall to give the plants about 5 to 6 weeks to establish their roots before the soil freezes. Hard-neck Garlic tolerates a wide range of climates, but it needs a period of one to two months at 32 to 50 degrees in winter. Some call garlic the Patriotic Crop - plant it around Columbus Day in October and harvest around the 4th of July.

For all bulb crops, maintain soil pH between 6.2 to 6.8. Fertilizer and lime applications should be based on soil tests. Too rich a soil results in lush leaves and skimpy bulbs! Garlic loves loose soil; add sand or compost to make the soil soft. Garlic needs good drainage and prefers a sunny location, but it will tolerate some shade.
 

Harvesting

For the home gardener, a good rule of thumb is to harvest when about 30-50% of the plant's leaves have dried. If you have planted in the fall, this should fall around the 2nd week in July. Since there is a limited window for harvesting garlic (about two weeks) you will want to pull a "test stalk" to see how the garlic is coming. Two to three weeks before harvest STOP watering to allow the bulbs to cure.

Remove the bulbs with extreme care, using a hand-held gardening fork, taking care not to bruise them. Brush off as much dirt as possible, by hand, taking care to keep the papery white sheath intact. Lay the bulbs out on a screen, in a shady, cool and well-ventilated spot to dry. Keep them out of the sun, as direct sun may caramelize garlic.